Starting with Sewing – Sewing Machines

Starting or restarting sewing can come from various reasons. It could be finding a forgotten sewing machine in the closet, dissatisfaction with store-bought clothes, or simply the desire to try a new hobby. In any case, those who still sew their clothes entirely by hand are very few today—except perhaps for those making traditional or historical garments. This means that sewing still requires a sewing machine. However, the options seem endless. But, the more specifically you know what you want, the narrower the choices become. Often, when you’re just starting out, you might have no idea what and how much you’re going to sew.

So, I thought I’d share my experience based on the machines in my studio. However, it’s important to note that I’m just a user, not a dealer or repair specialist, so I might not be able to offer the insights that some sewing machine sellers or technicians could provide. Therefore, I’ll be speaking purely from a user’s perspective.

Important Question: What do I want to sew?

It’s good to know what you want to sew, or what you already sew. Are you mostly sewing clothing, home textiles (including heavier materials), knit fabrics, or would you like to make quilts using patchwork techniques?

What’s your answer?

• I mostly sew non-stretch fabrics: In this case, a pretty basic machine will do. If you find or dig out an old machine from the back of the closet, it’s worth taking it for a service first before you start working on your sewing projects.
• I mostly sew home textiles and heavier fabrics: In this case, you should pay more attention to the construction of the machine. The more metal it has (and the less plastic), the more durable it will be. You should also look for a machine with a large working area and possibly a walking foot function (for sewing thicker fabrics or dealing with tougher spots).
• I mostly sew knits: A machine with a horizontal spool (most newer machines have this) sews knits better. Also, a walking foot is useful for knits, as well as the ability to adjust the presser foot pressure.
• I love patchwork: For patchwork, you should ensure the machine has a large enough work surface, the ability to adjust presser foot pressure, and a walking foot can come in handy. If you want to sew pieces together quickly, automatic thread cutting can be a great help.

In any case, pay attention to the stability and quality of the machine’s body (the more metal, the better), whether the machine has good lighting, and how warranty and repair services are handled (this is why I recommend buying machines from specialized stores). Additionally, many popular brands have Facebook groups where people share experiences, tips, and problems.

What home or universal sewing machines do I have in my studio?

Brother Innovis 15 is a very popular machine in homes right now. It’s simple, reliable, and has all the necessary stitches. It works well for both regular sewing and knit stitches (stitch numbers 3, 10, and zigzag). It’s compact, quiet, reasonably priced—not super comfortable, but it gets the job done.

Why do I say it’s not particularly comfortable? It’s not as comfortable if you want to use large thread spools (like 5000m ones) or if you love sewing knits and want to use a twin needle. If these nuances aren’t a concern for you, then this machine could be great for your needs.

The Janome Horizon 8200QC has served me quite well, and I have to honestly say that this machine has so many functions that I haven’t even used half of them. And let’s face it, when a machine has 100 different stitches (I’m not sure if this one has that many), you end up using maybe a maximum of ten of them.

This machine is actually designed for quilting, meaning it has a large work area, good lighting (though I recommend adding extra lamps above the work surface), it comes with a walking foot and even a knee lift (you can raise the presser foot with your knee). Another really convenient feature is the scissors button, which automatically cuts the thread at the end of a seam.

The machine is quite large, so packing it away after each sewing session would be cumbersome. However, you can definitely say that with a machine like this, you can sew pretty much everything at home (though, of course, not things like furniture upholstery).

The Pfaff Ambition 610 is my current favorite. Out of the three machines I have, this one is of medium size, but it’s still compact enough to store away or take with me (I often bring it with me from the studio on weekends). I’ll mention one downside right away, because honestly, I don’t have much else negative to say about this machine – the only issue is the placement of the forward-backward stitch and the start-stop buttons. My hand often accidentally hits those buttons.

What I really like, however, is the stitch quality and the built-in IDT (Integrated Dual Feed) system. Since I mainly use this machine for sewing jersey fabrics, the IDT system works perfectly for that. It also offers enough workspace, and like most modern machines, it has all the necessary stitches. The IDT system is actually found in most Pfaff machines, but I specifically chose this one due to the ample work area.

So, this was my choice because it allows me to sew not only jersey fabrics but also quilts and heavier materials.

The price range definitely plays a role in choosing a sewing machine. If you’re a casual sewer, you might want to look at something like the Brother Innovis. If you’re more of a hobbyist, then perhaps a Pfaff with the affordable IDT system would be a good fit. And if your budget is endless, well, then the options are endless too. But always keep in mind which functions you’ll actually use.

If you’re sewing skirts, dresses, etc., it’s worth buying a concealed zipper foot in addition to the machine. While you can technically sew a concealed zipper with a regular zipper foot, it won’t be as neat. It’s better to choose a zipper foot with a small bar in the front that helps push the zipper teeth aside.

So, choose the one on the right or something similar!

It’s also a good idea to stock up on different needles for your machine, specifically for regular fabric and for knits.

Universal needles are the standard ones, and the 80 size is the gold middle ground. For thinner fabrics, you can go for 70 or 75 size. There are also special needles for specific materials like denim or leather, etc.

When sewing with knits, it’s important to use needles specifically designed for that purpose, such as Stretch or Jersey needles. If you’re using a twin needle, it should also be a stretch needle, preferably with a wider needle spacing (like the one shown in the picture, number 4). A narrower needle spacing can cause the fabric to bunch up or tunnel.

It’s definitely worth using high-quality, smooth (not fuzzy) thread. This will save your sewing machine because all the lint and dust from poor-quality threads can accumulate inside the machine. In addition, cheap threads are more prone to breakage. Easily accessible, high-quality threads include brands like Coats, Gütermann, and Madeira.

Some of the most trusted brands are Janome, Juki, Brother, Pfaff, and Husqvarna.

Happy sewing!
Ruth