Sewing Girls’ Underwear + Pattern

Have you run into the same problem? Over the years, I’ve sewn a lot of children’s clothes, and I always end up with small leftover fabric pieces that I don’t have the heart to throw away… but there’s not much you can really do with them either. Sometimes I make so-called patchwork t-shirts, but even then, at least one sleeve and the back piece still need to be from a single piece. And on top of that, all those cute little patterns don’t always match well together.

So what to do? I need to sew something small – but I also don’t want to waste materials just for the sake of it – so instead, I decided to sew underwear! Those are always needed. And since kids grow, I went ahead and made a pattern in several sizes right away. That way, I don’t have to think about it for the next few years – I can just start sewing when needed.

What fabrics to use?

For sewing underwear, I use cotton jersey – usually around 200–230 g/m². Cotton jersey generally holds up well in the wash (though darker prints tend to fade a bit faster) and feels nice against the skin. If the underwear itself is made from patterned fabric, I usually make the lining piece from a matching solid color. But then again – why not hide a fun little pattern there on purpose? It might actually encourage your child to put on their underwear themselves!

When it comes to finishing options, there’s a wide variety. The simplest method is to use fold-over elastic (FOE) and a zigzag stitch. Fold-over elastic can be used with a slight stretch at both the waist and leg openings.

As for the length of the elastic, I can’t give you an exact number – and it’s not included in the PDF pattern either. Why not? Because elastics vary a lot. Some soft elastics stretch like chewing gum, while decorative ones can be quite stiff. So, you’ll need to rely a little on your intuition – or just test it out.

But what if I don’t have any fabric leftovers? What should I choose?

If you don’t have fabric scraps and plan to buy new fabric, it’s best to choose ones certified with the Oeko-Tex or GOTS label. These certifications guarantee that the fabric is free from harmful substance residues. You can check for this label either on the fabric tag, along the fabric selvedge, or in the product description when ordering from an online shop.

Elastic bands for underwear can also be found in various places. Most online fabric stores carry a selection, and physical fabric stores usually offer different options as well. Luckily, elastics are quite affordable, so you can stock up on a few basic colors and start mixing and matching as you like.

How are the pieces sewn together?

I’ve made a detailed guide with the PDF pattern, but actually, there can be several different ways to assemble the underwear.

Here’s the sewing order I personally prefer:

1. Finish the narrow edge of the lining piece (the one that faces forward) with a 3-thread overlock/serger stitch
2. Sew one side seam of the underwear using a 4-thread overlock
3. Sew the crotch seam (3 layers – front piece, back piece, and the lining)
4. Finish the leg openings
5. Attach the waistband elastic
6. Sew the second side seam
7. Press and clean up the piece

Another logical order could be:

1. Sew the crotch seam (3 layers – front, back, lining)
2. Finish the leg openings
3. Sew one side seam
4. Attach the waistband elastic
5. Sew the second side seam
6. Press and clean up

It’s funny how sewing order can feel so personal—what makes sense to one person might not to another. Sometimes, you also have to factor in motivation. A lot of students have told me they have several half-finished t-shirts lying around, just waiting for the neckband.

So we thought—why not flip the order like this:

1. Sew shoulder seams
2. Attach the neckband
3. Then do everything else

That way, the “annoying” neckband gets done first, and there’s no risk of leaving another t-shirt unfinished. No more half-sewn shirts!

Decorating

While there’s usually not much to decorate on boys’ boxer briefs, girls’ and women’s underwear can absolutely be dressed up – with little bows, pearls, or even bows made of pearls. The only limit is your comfort and imagination!

Now’s probably the perfect moment to put on some good music, download and print the PDF pattern, and get started! Trust me—your little lady will thank you. She might even help you pick out the fabrics!

If you’re a bit nervous about sewing jersey fabric with a regular sewing machine, maybe this video will give you a bit of encouragement and inspiration.

Happy sewing!